In prehistoric times when people were intertwined with nature, one day, under the deep blue cover of the sky, a Paleolithic person came across a fragrant flower while walking in the depths of the forest. The flower smelled so good that a wave of peace and excitement that he had never felt before surrounded his body. The Paleolithic person took the flower in his hands, extracted its essence and rubbed it on a stone. The scent that remained on the stone brought peace to him and his tribe. These fragrant stones began to be used in the tribe’s rituals and in offerings to the gods. Over time, this art of scent developed with the use of different plants and resins, and the foundation of perfumery was laid.
Origins of Perfume
After this speculative beginning, let us examine the origin of fragrant essences and perfumes in the light of scientific data.
Perfume is a manifestation of people’s desire to use pleasant scents in nature for various reasons. The first traces of this practice, which can be considered one of the indispensable elements of the Modern Age, can actually be traced back to the Neolithic Age. However, it is thought that incense or resins, which form the basis of professional perfumery, were also used in the pre-Neolithic period. We do not know whether the hunter-gatherer Paleolithic people, who spent most of their lives hunting in caves or outdoors, had a concern about smelling nice. However, according to scientists, people may have used aromatic herbs and fragrant flowers for ritualistic purposes during that period.
The transition to the Neolithic Age with the agricultural revolution witnessed a significant change in the use of scents. As people settled down and began to cultivate plants, they gained more knowledge and control over aromatic plants and flowers. This enabled the extraction and use of scents more consciously.
In the Neolithic Age, in addition to cereals and fruits and vegetables for consumption, many aromatic plants such as rosemary and thyme were domesticated. In addition, thanks to the developing trade, exotic resins such as frankincense and myrrh were now known in the Near East, Mesopotamia and Egypt. These developments contributed to the emergence of more sophisticated perfumes. However, exotic substances also made perfumes even more valuable. Indeed, exotic essential oils and aromatic resins have been found in some ceremonial vessels in Neolithic Age excavations in the Near East, Mesopotamia and Egypt, but it is thought that these scents were probably used by elite people in society or were kept for sacred rituals.
One of the most important elements that the Neolithic Age added to the world of perfumes was the symbolic association of scents with gods and the afterlife. During this period, specially prepared scented oils were used in funeral ceremonies to protect the body and ensure a safe passage to the afterlife. Scents ensured that the soul was protected on the journey to the afterlife and was accepted into the presence of the gods. Additionally, these oils and various incenses could be used during the mummification process.
Perfume Production Techniques in Ancient Times
In ancient times, perfume production was a craft that required knowledge of botany and chemistry. One of the first civilizations to make significant contributions to this field was the Ancient Egyptians. The Egyptians used the technique of “enfleurage,” which was the pressing of animal fats or vegetable oils to absorb the scents of flowers. When combined with the use of heat, this method allowed the production of both aromatic and protective ointments and oils.
Another method was maceration, which was used to extract essential oils from plants and flowers. In this technique, plants and flowers were usually immersed in heated oils or water to release aromatic compounds. Maceration was an effective method, especially for extracting scents from roots, resins and barks. The resulting perfumed oils were usually stored in plaster or ceramic jars.
The Ancient Mesopotamians developed a primitive distillation method for perfume production. They separated the essential oils from plants using clay pots and bamboo tubes. This technique, which is more difficult than the ones above, was used to produce intense perfumes that were kept especially for religious ceremonies and to be offered to the gods.
The Concept of Beauty in Ancient Egypt and the Greco-Roman World
When we think of the concept of beauty in the ancient age, the luxurious and elegant world of that period immediately comes to mind, right? However, we should know that beauty in that period was not limited to appearance alone. It was a multi-layered phenomenon that went deep into the soul and reflected the harmony that a person established with both themselves and the gods. For example, in ancient Egypt, beauty was connected to a divine order called “Ma’at”. To be a part of this order, you had to be in balance not only physically but also spiritually. That’s why the Egyptians used scented oils and essences not only to beautify their skin, but also to harmonize their souls with the gods. As you can see, perfumes were both a beauty tool and a spiritual cleansing ritual for the people of that period.
Now let’s come to the Greco-Roman world… When we think of beauty in these civilizations, symmetry, proportion and harmony immediately come to mind. Both the body and the soul had to be perfect, everything had to be in harmony with each other. But the interesting thing is that scents also played a big role in this understanding of aesthetics. Perfumes were not just accessories at that time, they were almost like invisible ornaments that completed a person’s appearance. It was not for nothing that the Roman poet Ovid emphasized the importance of scent in the art of seduction in his work “Ars Amatoria”. According to him, a good perfume was an element that carried a person’s attractiveness beyond physical beauty.
The Symbolism of Essences: Perfume and Cultural Identity
In ancient times, perfumes were a powerful symbol of cultural identity. Specific scents were often associated with specific regions, gods, and social classes. For example, the Egyptians revered the lotus flower, whose scent was associated with the sun god Ra and was widely used in religious rituals.
Similarly, in Mesopotamia, the use of cedar wood in perfumes had a deep symbolic meaning. Representing the connection between the material world and the divine, cedar was believed to have protective properties. Perfumes made from cedar wood were used by the elite to emphasize their privileged status and their connection to the divine.
Perfume was also used as a sign of cultural identity by the Greeks and Romans. Certain scents were even associated with specific cities and regions. The city of Corinth was renowned throughout the Mediterranean for the production of high-quality perfumes. These local scents contributed to a sense of shared identity among the inhabitants, strengthening the cultural prestige of the region.
Perfume Bottles and Storage Methods in Ancient Times
In the ancient world, perfume storage methods stood out as a craft that included both functionality and aesthetic finesse. While storage containers were designed to preserve scents, they also became a cultural symbol as an indicator of social status.
The Egyptians played a pioneering role in perfume storage technologies with their ointment jars made of durable materials such as plaster and stone. These containers were often decorated with detailed carvings and marked with hieroglyphs reflecting the nature of the material they contained and the social status of their owner.
In Mesopotamia, perfume containers were mostly made of clay or glass. The choice of these materials was important in terms of preserving the valuable perfumes they contained for a long time. Advances in glass production techniques during the Late Bronze Age led to the emergence of thinner, more transparent and aesthetically superior bottles.
The artistic care and aesthetics in perfume bottles gained a new dimension thanks to the Greek and Roman societies. Bottles made of precious materials such as gold, silver and crystal were richly decorated and were often used as diplomatic gifts or as altar objects in religious rituals. Additionally, sealed stoppers and airtight lids prevented the oxidation of the perfume content, ensuring that the fragrance ingredients remained fresh for a long time.